Challenges of winter

Having never attempted to grow plants through the winter, I just really had no idea what to expect. I did have some preconceived notions but those were just coming from what I have read in the past. At first, there was success and admittedly, a real uptick in hope. So I expanded the experiment to see if I cold replicate the nascent results of my initial foray into winter/greenhouse gardening.
Sadly, at this point, the newly planted seeds have yet to show themselves. I am not yet ready to throw in the towel as I believe there still is a good chance that they will come to fruition. I say that because, when it comes to vegetable gardening, I have developed a strong understanding that not everything works on our timetables. Additionally, the recent weather is much more wintery than when I planted the first crops. Our lows have been into the mid 20's the last few nights as has been the temperature in the greenhouse given it is unheated. I am relying on the fact that the seeds "know" what to do and are usually pretty resilient.
The established plants seem to be pretty hardy and are making progress albeit at a slower pace. I believe this is the pace they set during winter. As can be seen below, the lettuce plants seem the most vibrant as the spinach plants are just really struggling. The spinach seems to have started to grow again in the last couple of days so I will just hope they have rebounded.
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Additionally, even though the temps are lower now, the newly planted pots are continuing to dry out so I am having to water them frequently(as seen below). And, the pots that are in the northwest corner of the greenhouse seem to dry out much faster than even the ones right next to them. I can rule out a soil difference as they all had the same soil mix. It most likely has something to do with the amount of sun they receive as these pots would get a little more sun on a clear day. It's just something I have to deal with and keep an eye on. 

As spring approaches, I have been looking for ways to make the most of what areas I have. I have the greenhouse, the 226 sq. ft. of garden plots and the structure I have left unplanted. As I grow most of my own seedlings and augment with heirloom plants from a few select nurseries, I have been contemplating how I can increase my seedlings this year. And, it hit me. I have a garage that is detached and unheated. I have been tracking the current temps in it and it seems to be a little warmer than the greenhouse. No big surprise there. But, in about a month, the sun will be stronger and the garage probably will be warmer. So I have begun to clear the area on one of the south facing shelves. I put clear plastic over the two windows above the shelf to stop the wind coming through. It probably will have enough warmth to get the seedlings started so I can transfer them into the greenhouse to harden them off. It's a new project that should keep me even busier.
On a side note, I was fortunate enough to be able to visit one of my favorite seed stores in Maryland. It's called Meyer Seeds and is close to downtown Baltimore. They have been around for a very long time. When you go in the store, you take a big step back in time. The decor reminds me of pictures of stores in the 1950's. I had the pleasure to speak with a gentleman who was able to point me to an almost fail safe cucumber given it is self pollinating and who then pointed out that my problem was most likely the cucumber beetle. He gave me a fix for that to boot! He also assured me that they have stock in all seeds as I questioned him about that given reports that some seed companies were expecting some spot shortages this year. He then sold me peas and beans in bulk and advised I use an inoculant before planting the peas.
It was a great visit there and I look forward to going back there during planting season to get organic based sprays they have. It's always a treat to speak to someone else who knows your passion and problems. They rate high on my list on both.
Well, that's all I have for now. Hopefully, you are starting to get the bug to plant. It certainly wont be long now. Until next time, Happy Gardening!

Blossom End Rot - scourge of the tomato.

"Failure of one thing is repaired by the success of another."  Thomas Jefferson, Garden Book,1809

I don't think that there is anything more disheartening than putting in the planning, exerting the labor and tending to your tomatoes only to have them end with Blossom End Rot.  Although this malady of the soil can occur on other plants such as squash, peppers and even watermelons, it is most associated with the tomato plant.  That may be because the tomato is likely the most planted vegetable across all gardens. 
Unlike Mr. Jefferson's outlook, to have it all end with a black, soft spot on the end of your tomatoes is an almost epic failure in most gardeners opinions.  But, is there really anything a gardener can do to decrease the chances their tomatoes won't be beset by BER?  Thankfully, the answer is that there are certain steps that can be implemented that will reduce the occurrence drastically.
In order to defeat this scourge, one has to understand the origin of it and the complex nature of the issue. Blossom End Rot is often mistaken as a fungus or pest issue by gardeners.  If they see it, they will spray their plants with pesticides or fungicides to combat it.  When in fact, BER is really an environmental soil issue.  Once detected by sight on the fruit, it is almost impossible to correct the situation in time to save the rest of the crop.  
Rot occurs under certain identifiable soil and weather conditions.  Calcium deficiencies and long periods of wet weather are the main culprits that bring on rot.  While one cannot control the weather, you can control the structure and mineral content of your gardening soil to manage it.  As with any issue of the soil, it is best to start with a soil test.  Preference here would be to submit your soil samples to the local extension service instead of using the do it yourself kits that are available.  The extension services often will give you concrete steps to take which is based on their many years of experience.
If the soil test showed a calcium deficit, you will likely will be advised to add limestone to your soil.  If there was too much, you will told to add gypsum.  The test may even show you have the necessary calcium and nutrients for your plants.  The rot may have occurred because your plants cannot access either due to other practices.
Whichever your results are, the next step is to build up your soil structure.  As alluded to earlier, BER can be the result of your plants inability to take up the calcium and nutrients present in the soil that they need.  They are blocked by other less noticeable issues.  This condition is generally brought about by poorly draining soil, the use of high nitrogen fertilizers or salts and/or irregular watering practices.
Poorly draining soil can be best addressed by adding organic matter to your beds in the spring before planting begins.  It can take the form of almost any amendment offered.  Compost is perhaps the most used one.  Either buy a OMRI rated compost or use your own if you practice composting.  Others would be composted cow manure, mushroom compost or leaves.  One caveat here.  When buying commercially produced amendments, look for the OMRI certification to insure you have a clean product for your garden.  No sense in introducing harmful pathogens into your garden. 
Adding organic matter addresses a multitude of issues that can occur in your soil.  It both allows your soil to hold the necessary moisture, and it also structurally allows it to drain the excess off.  It adds nutrients to your soil that are slowly released to the plants too.
With tomatoes, an even watering pattern will go a long way to lessening the chances of Blossom End Rot.  Uneven watering does not allow the roots to supply the fruit with the balanced nutrients required for successful maturity.  A balance must be maintained between your watering and the rains you get.
Another step that can be taken is to mulch around your tomatoes.  This results in the maintenance of a constant soil moisture and temperature.  Mulch has the side benefit of also depressing the occurrence of disease transfer from the ground to the plant leaves when it rains or you water in the garden.
Another practice to stem BER is to rotate your crops each year so the plants are not being grown in the same plot year after year.  Different plants deplete different nutrients throughout the growing season.  Rotating also reduces the opportunity for diseases and pests to become prevalent in the garden.  
One last trick that can be used is to spread dolomitic lime into the hole you are transplanting your tomato seedlings into.  Then cover the lime with native soil and transplant the tomato.  This will allow for a ready supply of calcium right at the root zone.  You can also spread a little of the lime on the top of the soil for an added boost later.  
These are the most effective known methods and practices any gardener can take to insure the best possible outcome for your tomatoes.  Using any combination of these will significantly decrease the occurrence of Blossom End Rot in the garden.  I hope this has been helpful and that it will ensure you great tomato crops in the future.  Happy Gardening everyone.         

And then summer hits with a bang!

Well, between the evening of July 4th and the morning of July 5th, we received over 1.5" of rain.  It was one of those nice soaking even rains that are just so good for the plants.  Plus. it filled my rain barrels with over 125 gallons of free, clean water.  But now, that has been followed up with probably the hottest weather we have seen in quite some time.  This presents a very difficult challenge for your garden.  Today's high was in the 90's with what I would characterize as high humidity.  You just feel it as soon as you go outside.  It's not oppressive but just give it time and it will be.
The challenge is to make sure your soil isn't drying out even though just about a day ago, you just saw some really significant rains.  Heat of this magnitude can sap the moisture right out of the soil just as easily it put the rains down a day ago.  Easy come, easy go anyone?  And your plants will not generally show the effects of this whipsaw until they have transpired the saved moisture in their leaves.  You can go to work and come home and it's like night and day.
To guard against this, you need to give the plants - as illogical as it sounds - a good watering to ward off the weeping plant syndrome.  That's where I will be this evening.  I will use my sprinkler as I do not want to overexert myself in the heat.  I will use the rain water in the mornings when the sun is not so powerful.
On a side note about watering.  There is new proof that watering your garden in the noon hours (12-2PM) is very beneficial to vegetables.  They actually produce better and more veggies.  So, if you can do that without putting yourself at risk, the rewards are reportedly worth the extra efforts from what I have read.
So there you have it.  The never ending challenges facing a backyard gardener.  Go out and give it a try folks.  Gardening is both a reward and a challenge.  Until next time, happy gardening.